Bungay, Suffolk—what a gem! after shopping and a nice cuppa in one of it’s little tea shops, we unlocked some of it’s Suffolk secrets

At first glance, this pretty little town lays all its cards on the table. You see it all right there; the lovely artisan shops, the enticing bakeries, the classic butcher, art galleries, and even a theatre. But trust me, slow down and look closer, because this innocent-looking town is absolutely packed with mysteries. And don’t worry, you could easily walk right past all that hidden history, but I’ve got your back. I’m going to put the key in the lock and uncover a lot of Bungay’s secrets in this post!

The Hidden Castle in the Town Centre

You might be surprised by Bungay Castle. Even though the ruins are quite large, it’s easy to walk right past it without knowing it’s there! (I’m writing this in 2025, and it’s currently being renovated, so much of it is covered up.) Right now, it’s hard to get a good look because of the tarpaulin and ongoing works, but you can still see parts of the curtain wall and the twin gatehouse towers from the street. It’s tucked away right behind the Kitchen Café and Visitors Centre,(this is the entrance when it’s back open) just off the Market Place. It feels odd to see an actual castle ruin sitting right inside a busy town. Fun fact: the town got permission for its market back in the 13th century when the Bigod family occupied the castle, and the weekly Thursday market you can still enjoy today was officially sanctioned by King Richard II in 1382.

The castle has a rich and turbulent history, primarily associated with the powerful Bigod family over several centuries. The first castle on the site was a motte and bailey fortress, originally built in timber and earthworks shortly after the Norman Conquest. Some sources suggest it was first initiated by William de Noyers, and later held by Roger Bigod around 1103, who was granted the land by King Henry I. The site was strategically located in a bend of the River Waveney, providing a natural defence.

The Stone Keep Construction is of the Mid-12th Century, when the castle was significantly upgraded by Hugh Bigod, 1st Earl of Norfolk, Roger’s son. And in around 1165, he built this massive stone keep on the castle mound, with walls reportedly 5-7 metres thick and standing over 33 metres high.

The castle passed through various owners until it was eventually gifted to the townspeople of Bungay by the Duke of Norfolk in 1987. It is now owned and maintained by the Bungay Castle Trust. A lot of restoration and archaeological work had been carried out in the 1930’s.

The Butter Market and Public Punishment

In 1688 a huge fire destroyed much of Bungay – the Market Cross was quickly replaced so as to establish trading as soon as possible. Wooden steps inside the doomed structure were added so traders could sit and display their butter, cheese, and eggs; becoming known as the Butter Market or Butter Cross. You will see atop a lead statue of justice which was put there in the 18th century as a mark of fair trade and also criminals awaiting court trials would have been imprisoned in dungeons beneath the cross, or in a cage above it. People received public floggings here too. Being punished was a thing back then and if someone, even children committed a petty crime – being tied to one of the posts (you can still see the marks) by wrist irons, and perhaps have rotten food (if there was any to spare) thrown at you – would have been seen as fitting!

The Devil’s Stone and Chanting Phantoms

Head over to St. Mary’s Street, and you’ll find St. Mary’s Church, home to a few chilling folklore tales, or are these tales? Standing in the churchyard just by the huge front door is the legend that is the Devil’s Stone, or sometimes called the Druid’s Stone. It’s history is not a factual, documented building history like the castle, but rather a collection of ancient beliefs.

Maybe the stone is simply a ‘glacial erratic’—a huge boulder left behind by the Ice Age. It’s mind-boggling to think it might have been there long before the church or even human settlements! Of course, it could just be a large granite stone naturally deposited by changing weather. But even if it’s natural, that doesn’t stop people from giving it meaning and purpose. Over the centuries, it may have been used for all sorts of things, including, as some reports suggest,taken from the castle at one time and repurposed as a headstone in the graveyard.

Let’s go back thousands of years. The stone, which you can unbelievably still touch today, was attracting people’s attention even then, and for very good reasons. The stone is sometimes referred to as the “Druid’s Stone,” suggesting a connection to these pre-Christian religious practices. And keeping with the folklore and mystery it is said if you walk or dance around the stone 12 times and then ask the stone a question you will have it answered.

Another tale goes – if you walk around the stone 12 times and then knock on it – you will see the devil! I hear you ask – “Did I do this when visiting?”- Well, yes of course I did. However I didn’t know about the question answering thing until I got home and researched further! and then I hadn’t realised that you had to knock after walking around 12 times. So I in fact walked quickly (not sure why, I think I didn’t want to lose count) then stopped, fearing the Devil himself would make an appearance; but he didn’t. However, no mention is made to how long you have to wait in order for the devil to show himself to you. I still wait in trepidation.

The Priests, Ghosts, and Sound of Bells

Written accounts of Druidic practices (ancient Celtic Priest leaders with legal authority) and subsequently known as Pagan practices seem to have begun about 2,200 years ago. It’s important to remember, though, that this type of magic and religion—often including sacrifice—likely existed and was evolving from earlier cult practices long before the Druids.

Around about 400 BC this large boulder played a part in their practices of ‘stone worship’ (where sacred stones are venerated as deities,religious symbols,or houses for Gods), and believing the stones to have magic powers; it is no surprise when they found this Magic Stone produced sparks when struck with a flint, thus providing fire for heat and cooking – was seen as a gift from the very Gods within!

By the Saxon period (5th century-1066) these pagan ideas were beginning to be discouraged, and eventually a Christian Church and Benedictine Priory (served by Nuns and a Prioress)were built on the site. The sound of chanting has been heard in the dead of the night at times near the priory and bells toll that have now been long gone.

The Priory or what is left of it is tucked behind St. Mary’s church and well worth a look. The Priory was founded by Countess Gundreda (who was the wife of Hugh Bigod, and a Norman noble woman). There are the tales here of a young boy knocked or pushed onto the ground by ‘a phantom’ along or nearby Trinity Street and Trinity Hall, from the Victorian times, which still gets told today.

St. Mary’s church itself dates back from the 12th century and was damaged by the Great Fire. From here its worth crossing the road (Trinity Street) to have a look, if you dare, at the beautiful church of Holy Trinity, with it’s Saxon tower it is a delight. Praises were sung I am sure for its escape from the fire of 1688.

The town is littered with lovely informational signs for your convenience. It’s super easy walking and everything’s in easy reach—history, mystery, shopping, eating places, ghosts—honestly, it felt like every cobblestone corner held a secret, just waiting for me to stumble upon it!

And talking convenience there is a car park (Priory Lane) which is conveniently placed near public toilets and easy reach of the town centre. This is 30 minutes free parking. Then up to 4 hours £2. If you need longer and want to you could do the circular walk of the town which takes you past meadows, water and the Waveney valley, which is easy going.

Pubs and The Scary Black Dog

The Three Tuns Pub (Earsham Street)with cellar walls which were once part of the castle, is rumoured to have up to 20 ghosts. At one time a landlord called in a Canon to exorcise the pub as he wasn’t getting any rest at all, but felt sad when they’d briefly gone as he’d missed the aroma of an old pipe! Other ghosts include a persistent ghost called ‘Rex’ who has been seen time and time again by staff, children and customers. The Three Tuns is also said to be haunted by Dick Turpin who visited here in 1739 before he was hanged for his crimes.

Don’t imagine it’s the drink if you happen to see the spectral hound of Bungay who is remembered all over the town for his part in the account of a clergyman – Abraham Fleming (in 1577). He states an encounter at St. Mary’s Church in Bungay, ‘where a black dog, or a devil in such likeness, running along the church in great swiftness, kneeling in prayer, he wrung their necks’

The Fleece Inn (St. Mary’s Street) is a charming old building with a timber frame and medieval look, it serves a warm welcome. And if you catch a glimpse of the Black Shuck, the ghostly dog that roams the countryside and coastline of East Anglia, never fear —you’ve officially earned a bragging-rights story and an excuse to warm up with another glorious pint of local ale! Now, who’s packing their bags first to track down this legendary beast (and maybe grab some lunch)?

Also now you know where the Devil’s Stone is and what to do in order to see the Devil, are you brave enough to circle it 12 times?

Until next time dear friends x