Today, a brisk walk through the lovely Essex village of Thaxted takes us along Saxon streets built upon ancient Roman roads. While the 14th-century Guildhall was my primary destination, I was surprised to stumble upon a blue plaque marking the former home of Gustav Holst. I just had to share with you. Thaxted wasn’t only Holsts’ village but as I discovered; a great place to visit and stay.
Thaxted: More Than Just a Quaint Village
This quaint little town is well worth a visit. With a population of about 3500 people, and a church the size of a cathedral looking around it was a joy. There are not many shops left, but shopping was not on the agenda today anyway. If you have not had your fill of ‘quaintness’ after your visit here, there are the nearby villages of Debden, and Dunmow to seek out, as well as the little hamlets the parish contains such as Monk Street, Richmond’s Green and others for a scenic, gentle, country drive. I have listed some places to stay in the area too below, if you are looking for more peace or a base to view some stargazing.
The name of the town Thaxted derives from the Old English – ‘A place where thatching materials for thatching are made’- thank goodness for modern language!
It was here in Thaxted that Gustav Holst composed The Planets, a suite so iconic that even if you don’t recognise the name, you certainly know the music. Seeing where he lived with my own eyes, I can’t help but imagine Holst treading these very cobblestones not so many years ago. The church he frequented sits just a stone’s throw from his front door, a spot that also offers a magnificent, framed view of the ancient Guildhall.
Gustav Holst (born Gustavus Theodore von Holst) was born in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, England, on September 21, 1874.
Gustav Holst had a foreign-sounding name because of his family’s diverse Scandinavian and European roots. Although he was born in Cheltenham and was “assuredly English,” his ancestry was a mix of Swedish, Latvian, and German. His great-grandfather, Matthias Holst, was born in Riga, Latvia (of Scandinavian descent) and served as a musician at the Imperial Russian court before moving the family to England in the early 19th century.
Holst was born Gustavus Theodore von Holst, but he officially dropped the “von” by deed poll in September 1918. There were two main reasons for this – During World War I, there was a significant backlash against anything that sounded German. Having a “von” in his name caused suspicion among his neighbors in Thaxted, with some even worrying he might be a spy! Then when the war ended, Holst wanted to work with the YMCA to organise music for British troops awaiting demobilisation in Europe. To take the post, it was considered “prudent” to distance himself from the aristocratic, German-sounding “Von”.
By dropping the “Von” and shortening “Gustavus” to Gustav, he created the professional name we recognise today. Interestingly, while his name became more “English” in style, his music—specifically The Planets—was reaching its peak of international fame at the exact same time.
His early years were spent as a teacher and music composer and despite his fame today, he spent most of his life balancing his creative work with the practicalities of earning a living.
He was born at 4 Clarence Road (then known as 4 Pittville Terrace), a Regency-style terraced house. Today, the building is preserved as the Holst Victorian House, a museum dedicated to his life and Victorian history. But today we look at his deep connection to Thaxted, Essex. He died in 1934 at the age of 54 in London, following an operation on a duodenal ulcer which led to complications. His ashes are interred in Chichester Cathedral.
Because Holst initially struggled to support himself through composition alone, he worked as a professional musician. His first professional appointment was at age 17 as an organist and choirmaster in Gloucestershire. He also worked as a rehearsal pianist and coach. And Though he spent his later years famously connected to Thaxted, Essex, his roots were firmly in the Cotswolds, where he lived until moving to London at age 17 to study at the Royal College of Music.
Later in his life It’s said his wife rented a small 17th-century cottage in Monk Street (a hamlet just south of Thaxted). It was here, in a quiet environment with views of the Thaxted church spire, that he wrote much of the suite we talked of earlier – The Planets including the famous movement “Mars, the Bringer of War.”
Then 1917, after the suite was largely completed, the family moved into a house called “The Steps” (19 Town Street) in the centre of Thaxted itself. You can see why they did; even today it is made up of wonderful, quaint, little individually styled character cottages. Just like me, he must have loved the quiet, almost serene feel of the place.
It’s worth noting that as a teacher at St. Paul’s in London, he also did a significant amount of the scoring and piano arrangements in his soundproof music room at the school, so he must have loved the peacefulness of Thaxted.
The Thaxted Connection
The name “Thaxted” is now the official name of the hymn tune taken from the middle section of “Jupiter, the Bringer of Jollity.” Holst adapted this melody in 1921 to fit the poem “I Vow to Thee, My Country,” and the tune was named after the village he loved so much. A good friend of his and fellow composer, Ralph Vaughan Williams, encouraged him to turn the melody into a hymn.
In 1925, Vaughan Williams was editing a new hymn book called Songs of Praise (published in 1926) and he wanted to include Holst’s stirring melody from Jupiter but needed a formal “hymn” version. It was Vaughan Williams’ request that provided the stimulus for Holst to finally sit down and harmonize the tune specifically for congregational singing (so a church hymn).
The words were written by the British diplomat Sir Cecil Spring Rice. It was he who wrote the poem (originally titled Urbs Dei or The Two Fatherlands) in 1908 and later revised it in 1918.
Sadly Rice died shortly after finishing the poem, his words were eventually sent to Holst and as coincidences are often strange things; Holst’s only child and daughter, Imogen, was in the same class at St Paul’s Girls’ School as the daughter of Sir Cecil Spring Rice. And as Holst was the Director of Music at the school. This personal link is likely how the poem first landed on his desk!
So we know it wasn’t a solo effort. The hymn we know today was born from a ‘perfect storm’ of friendship and proximity: a poem by a diplomat whose daughter went to Holst’s school, a nudge from his best friend Ralph Vaughan Williams, and a melody written in a quiet Essex cottage that just happened to fit the words of a nation’s grief and hope.
Imogen Holst was born in Aldebugh in 1907 and died at age 76, she is buried in the graveyard here at Aldebugh, Suffolk. She like her father, was talented musically, being a composer, teacher and conductor she spent a lot of time as joint director for the Aldebugh Fetival of Music and the Arts, at Snape Maltings, which was established by Benjamen Britten, who was greatly influenced by Holst.
Another place she she spent as a teacher and very well known for her work was Dartington Hall near Totnes in South Devon Today it remains a place of education, and in a superb 14th century building that you can visit, stay at their unique accommodation or take a woodland walk, it’s well worth a visit. Learn|Stay|Visit|Eat
Imogen was sent to boarding school and seems to have had a relatively good time there, writing to her parents – one letter describes her day as “Competitions!, ripping prizes, and strawberries and cream for tea!”
Just like Holst you can feel this kind of magic which happens in the Essex countryside when the sun dips below the horizon. It’s a vast, open-sky stillness—the same stillness that greeted Gustav Holst over a century ago as he paced the lanes of Thaxted, translating the movements of the cosmos into the thunderous rhythms of The Planets.
It seems his career was cut short by health issues, but his impact remained. He was a bridge between the Romantic era and 20th-century Modernism, influencing future British composers like Benjamin Britten and Michael Tippett. Throughout his life, he remained a shy man who got on with “the work” and cared for this far more than the fame that came with it.
Today, that same celestial inspiration is waiting for you, but you don’t need to be a world-class composer to find it. Whether you’re looking for a romantic retreat tucked away in a luxury shepherd’s hut or a family adventure in a stargazing yurt, staying near Thaxted offers more than just a bed for the night; it offers a front-row seat to the ‘Music of the Spheres.’ From the historic timber-framed charm of the village to the dark-sky pockets of the Uttlesford district, a stay here is a chance to unplug from the digital noise and reconnect with the grand, orchestral scale of the night sky.”
Where to Stay: Your Base for Stargazing & History
For Romance: Down Hall Hotel, Spa & Estate
Are you looking for a romantic “Jupiter-style” grand getaway, Down Hall is a stunning historic manor located about 20 minutes from Thaxted. Opulent, historic, and surrounded by 110 acres of woodland and landscaped gardens—perfect for a nighttime stroll under the same constellations Holst studied.
- Best for: Couples looking for a luxury spa break combined with their history tour.
- Price: ~£146 per night. ( approx 2026)
For Families & Atmosphere: Channels Lodge
Set in a 15th-century farmhouse (matching the era of some of Thaxted’s oldest buildings), this lodge offers a mix of antique charm and modern comfort. Cosy, rustic, and very “Essex countryside.” It feels like a private retreat where you can escape the noise of the modern world.
- Best for: Families who want space and a touch of farmhouse character.
- Price: ~£124 per night. (approx 2026)
For your “Thaxted Local” Experience: Saracens Head
Located in nearby Great Dunmow, this is a classic former coaching inn that puts you right in the heart of the local market-town culture. Traditional, warm, and inviting. It’s exactly the kind of place where you could imagine Holst stopping for a drink after a long walking tour.
- Best for: Budget-conscious travellers who want a high-quality, central base.
- Price: ~£71 per night. (approx 2026)
The Glamping Experience
Maybe you fancy a ‘night under the stars’? Well, one with comfort – Staying in a shepherd’s hut in a field near Monk Street (where Holst lived) or an over-sized tent might just have you experiencing the exact same ‘Bringer of Jollity’ sunrise that inspired the suite 110 years ago.
Readers Field Glamping – is situated in Great Sampford, east of Thaxted. This site is ideal for those wanting to experience the rolling Essex meadows that inspired the ‘Thaxted’ hymn tune.
- Provides spacious glamping units with views across open fields.
- Known for its family-friendly atmosphere and proximity to walking trails.
- Best for: Those who are looking for home comfort with the beautiful outdoors
- Price: – £110 per night based on 2 Adults and 2 Children
Hidden Gem Glamping – is located in the small hamlet of Howlett End, just a short drive north of Thaxted. It is highly regarded by visitors for its peaceful, secluded setting, which mirrors the quiet environment Holst sought when composing.
- Offers a boutique experience with a focus on privacy and nature.
- Features well-equipped bell tents or similar structures designed for a comfortable stay.
- Best for: Those looking for ‘shut the world out experience’ Most of the pods are adult only and there are packages such as mini-moon experiences and slippers and ropes luxury, and hot-tubs.
- Price: – £120-170 per night – with many in the area being a 2 night stay minimum.
2026 Stargazing Tip
If you’re planning a visit for August 2026, time your stay for the evening of August 12th to witness a spectacular 91% partial solar eclipse over the Essex countryside. The peak occurs at approximately 7:13 PM, offering a rare, cosmic display that would have surely captivated Holst himself—just remember to pack your solar safety glasses!
Until next time dear friends x
