Uncover creepy tales and rich history in Norfolk and Cambridges’ haunted Fenlands. Visit Outwell and Upwell for true mystery.
On the Hunt for Ghosts, Witches and Landscape
Explore the Super Natural at Welney Wetland Centre, usually something Halloween filled in the autumn, for the kids and plenty to keep the adults amused with stunning views of the Ouse Washes. See also Ely Cathedral, Wisbech Port (and maybe catch a vessel coming in from the sea, this is still operational and subject to tidal conditions). Also not too far away is Peterborough Cathedral or even Wicken Fen, one of only a handful of natural fen landscapes still to survive.
But lets first visit the twin villages of Outwell and Upwell in East Cambridgeshire or is it Norfolk? more of that in a minute. Nestled deep in the atmospheric Fenlands, is a treasure trove of rich history and some deliciously creepy tales, and strange encounters, not least with witches and ghosts!
The flat, windswept landscape, once a vast marsh, lends a spooky feel to it all, especially around autumn time when the creepy, peaty landscape, prone to mist and with its huge skies, is an ideal backdrop for tales of the strange and unsettling; here you can experience this for yourself, I have found a murder mystery supper event that will fill you with terror! Or maybe you’re looking for a quieter affair, something real, steeped in history and full of atmosphere?
Well I’ve got both here for you, and I’ve been on the hunt for ghosts, witches, and the architecture which I have found in these two unique Fenland villages, set in an incredible landscape of mystery.
Ghostly Waters and Hidden History
When I was there just a few weeks ago I was met by some pretty creepy sights – take this weird one for example, it was just in someones window and it’s no where near Halloween yet! I find the combination of dilapidated housing surrounded by wonderful architecture somewhat baffling as well as comforting all at the same time.
The two villages were originally one settlement known as “Welle” or “Welles” up to the 13th century. This area was a thriving inland port on the ancient Well Stream (now the Well Creek), which connected the Nene and Great Ouse rivers to the sea at Wisbech.
The villages’ current names and separate identities are the result of a historical dispute. King Edgar (also known as The Peacemaker and was King of the English 959-975) supposedly divided the original ‘Welle’ between the Abbots of Ramsey (about 20 miles West)and Ely (about 20 miles South-East, and famous for its Cathedral) in 974.
In the Doomsday Book (1085) these villages were known as Utwella and Wtwella and the parish was in the custody of William de Warenne ( a Norman Nobleman who held great swathes of lands spanning many counties).
As time went on disagreements between the two orders (Ely and Ramsay)eventually led to a “spit from Welle,” hence Outwell (Out-of-Well), with Upwell being further up the stream. The county line (Norfolk/Cambridgeshire) famously ran right through the middle of the villages for centuries.
You wouldn’t really know they were separate villages as they kind of flow into each other quite gracefully. Well Creek is the part of the waterway running through the villages, this navigable watercourse is a key link between the River Great Ouse (via Salter’s Lode Lock) and the River Nene (via Marmont Priory Lock in the Middle Level).
Historically this was a purpose built canal that connected Outwell with the waterway at Wisbech (about 6 miles). It was opened in about 1797 – Wisbech was an important port and shipped out valuable Fenland goods across the seas.
The canal’s trade eventually declined due to competition from the railways and now only used for some fishing and leisure – Some Info
The magnificent medieval churches of St. Peter’s, Upwell and St. Clement’s, Outwell, are testaments to the former wealth of the area. Upwell’s church, in particular, with its 13th-century origins and medieval carvings, is a historical powerhouse. There are plenty of grand manors and houses in these villages, all privately owned but can be appreciated just driving through. If it’s atmosphere your’e looking for – it’s going to be here.
From the creepy waterways to the medieval village churches, other impressive building styles can still be appreciated. They reveal the prosperity that fuelled the construction of these structures, ranging from manor houses and near-stately homes to a veritable wealth of Jacobean, Georgian, and Edwardian architecture to the down-right ordinary homes making it an eclectic mixture in its quintessential nature. Which is perfectly captured in this often tatty and sometimes extraordinary architecture; scattered along the haunting waterways of these little villages. Not quite perfect but beautiful.
The Witch that Got Away
Although everything in these two Fenland villages looks rather peaceful today, the village of Upwell was touched by the dark shadow of Witchfinder General Matthew Hopkins in the 1640s.
Ellen Garrison, the ‘Witch’, In 1646, was arrested and accused of witchcraft, including bewitching two children who subsequently died, and of entertaining “evil spirits.” The accusations stemmed from a quarrel with a butcher, Robert Parson, after he reneged on a deal to sell her a pig. The wife of the butcher argued with Ellen as she did not want her to have the pig, Ellen left the shop cursing and thumping the table (or maybe the butchers block?)- soon after though the butchers wife Kathleen feel ill – being ‘tormented all over’ by pricking and tearing of her skin.
Kathleen thought she knew what had happened and ran to Ellen’s to apologise and agree to sell her the pig. All was well for a few days but the butchers cattle began to die and both his children became ill and died within days of each other. They were in despair and called on Mathew Hopkins to help – he happened to be in the area heading to some trials in Kings Lynn, Norfolk,( about 20 miles away)
Subsequently Ellen was arrested, she must be a witch as it was said Hopkins and others bear witness to a cricket and a beetle crawling around the bottom of the stool Ellen was sitting on while being tortured!, these creatures were signs of her familiars (supernatural, evil companions)he said. She was sent to trial at Ely (Cambridgeshire) Goal along with 8 others in the area.
At this time Mathew Hopkins and his counterpart John Stern’s (who partnered together ridding the area of witches- not least charging a good price for any found guilty) they’d been working together for a couple of years by now and their ‘work’ was beginning to be questioned – people were getting fed up with his hefty prices and starting to doubt their authority. In Ely, Ellen and 2 other widows were accused but all were thrown out of court on technicalities. Phew!
Ellen was known as the witch that got away.
The Beaupré Hall Ghosts and Legends of Outwell
- The long-lost Beaupre Hall Manor in Outwell, established as far back as 1066, was an epicentre of local ghost stories before and since its tragic destruction by damage and neglect. Beaupre being the name of a prominent family from Norfolk.
The Hall contained a supposedly haunted, panelled room where the bed was mysteriously found to have been slept in every single morning, despite the room being locked and unoccupied. Servants dared not omit making it up, lest its spectral occupant roam the house.
It too was a local superstition that anyone passing the gates of Beaupré Hall after midnight might see a row of carriages drawn up—with a headless coachman!
And The White Lady – A sad spectre of a woman in a long, flowing white robe was sighted on the battlements and in the land nearby( the manor had many additions over the years including a tower)in the 1950’s. The local story is a tragic one – the daughter of the house never recovered after her father sent her lover to battle overseas, only for him to be killed. So it is said she wanders around to this day looking for him.
Walking back to my car from the local co-op a fisherman caught my eye, giving him a nod, we were too close not to say ‘Hello’, “hows your day going” – “caught anything?” I said, “No” he said “not much in these waters any more”, “watch out for the white lady” he said as I continued to walk. Looking back over my shoulder at him I thought how did he know I was on the hunt for ghosts? was he telepathic? or did he mean it? I’m not sure, I didn’t hang around long enough to ask. That really was a strange encounter.
Heading along the fen back to the main road I travelled through some wonderful big sky country, the sun was shining and I could see flat land all about, filled with the loveliest bright orange fields full of pumpkins.
These two little villages although not having too much in the way of entertainment to offer the visitor, would make a perfect base to explore the Fenlands. In any direction and within a 20 mile range you can see the fenland in all its glory and big skies. At any time of the year the fields themselves offer a spectacular sight. From the baron, rich, dark peaty soil of the winter, to the dazzling brightness of a field full of orange pumpkins.
A Stay in The Fens if You Dare
I found two great places to stay for you.
A whole house – with all the mod cons and plenty of room for the family – alongside the canal, this is for atmospheric lovers! HERE
What about a business trip or a place to hang your hat while visiting the Fens? HERE
This nice little place offers a clean, bright, and modern boutique-style stay, along with some nice dining.
Murder Mystery Nights
It also offers a Halloween Special each year. So you can have a meal and find out who the killer is all in one nights entertainment! HERE
Making use of the land and the waterways people have made a living from this eerie landscape for centuries. The mystery of the Fens with it’s imperfectness is a perfect place to hunt down tales of witches, ghosts and the love of buildings, which embodies the human spirit.
Until next time dear friends x
